As (A) Screenprint

Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2016

The psychedelic and homo-erotic butt action painting series of Martine Rose's Mapplethorpe-cum-Pollock-laden fashion film. Beauty lies in its multiple forms. Who is there to judge.


Brothers, Unreleased

LAZOSCHMIDL Fall/Winter 2016

An established motif in soft pornography and erotic same sex culture, two siblings discovering their bodily desires is being translated into a collection of silk pyjama trousers and floral lace shirts. The naïve romanticism is further explored with water colour prints, paisley embroidery and sparkly lurex.

Image credits Hedvig Jenning


Pinocchio's Buttplug

1. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2016
2. Paul McCarthy Pinocchio, 2001
3. Paul McCarthy The Chocolate Factory, 2014
4. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2015

It is not the first time, Walter payed homage to Paul. A dream couple of brother-in-arms. Making the world a little more friendlier and sexier with artificially elongated body parts and faecal poetry.


The Sleeve

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2016
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2016 & Prada Fall/Winter 2016
3. Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016
4. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2016

What holds up must fall down. A collection with sweatshirts enscripted with ‘Dead Prince College’ was the prequel to Simons’ latest trial in reviving his own history. Yet, beyond meaning and repeating, it was a styling trick we will be caught in from now on. In sync (as always) with shared friend Olivier Rizzo at Prada.


Frequency Of Privilege

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 1 Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2008

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 2 Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2006
fig. 3 Pierre & Gilles St. Sebastian Of The Sea, 1994
fig. 4 Robert Mapplethorpe Leatherman #1, 1970

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 5 Pablo Picasso Seated Harlequin, 1923

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 6 Pablo Picasso Suite Vollard, 1933
fig. 7 Pablo Picasso Minotauromachy, 1935

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 8 Comme des Garçons Dazed & Confused, 1998

Prada Fall/Winter 2016
fig. 9 Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2001
fig. 10 Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2004
fig. 11 Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2005
fig. 12 Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2007
fig. 13 Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2002

‘I am your biggest fear’ - it felt like an apologetic shout-out to the world, to the fashion critic and to competing houses. A loving hint towards Marc Jacobs and Rei Kawakubo, which in itself turned into critique.

‘I am better than you’ - it felt like a slap in the face. Miuccia is playing with her contemporaries, using the same toys and tools. Eventually not only winning but exceeding anyone’s skill and achievements.

‘I want your money’ - and soul. Look 28, the harlequin, voiced a consumerist promise against the wallets of us customers. Targeting both profiles: the dedicated Prada man and the long time missed Miu Miu boy.

I had the dark feeling the angry sailor parade will be her last collection. But maybe it was just a resurrection.