20160622

Deciphering Vetements’ Balenciaga







1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2017 & Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2011
2. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2017 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009
3. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2017 & Vetements Fall/Winter 2016

It is a trial-ogue between Mertin, Raf and the self that is Demna. My favourite collection of all times (Spring/Summer 2009) finds itself re-appropriated, re-conceptualized and re-made. Blended with what is out there, and what Raf himself took on - that is oversized workwear shirts. Isn’t it a pity that fashion looks all the same? Long sleeves, dropped shoulders, drab fabrics. Isn’t it a pity that genius copies each other? Is that truly genius?

Appendix:

Golden Girls 1985-1992

20160618

Skins In Heels





1. Sølve Sundsbø Hard, Harder, Hardest, The Face 2001
2. DSquared Spring/Summer 2017

When hardcore fantasies turn into non-commercial/now-commercial thoughts. The glitter heeled outcast, the provocative blur of masculine violence and sexual abandon. A drag performance/exercise in political incorrectness.

20160617

Firenze Rafiennale







1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2017
2. Robert Mapplethorpe Louise Bourgeois, 1982 (Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 1999-2000)
3. Robert Mapplethorpe Self-Portrait, 1975 (Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 1997)
4. Robert Mapplethorpe Heart And Dagger, 1982 (Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 1997)

The looks I liked. I don't think it was a walking gallery show, nor curated. It wasn't a nod to Mapplethorpe's personal style either. It was a collaboration. And a little bit of repetition.

Image credits Vogue.com

20160610

Son & Father & Son











1. Craig Green Spring/Summer 2017
2. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2016
3. Bernhard Willhelm Untitled (Instagram), 2016

A Rick Green Craig Owens moment. Identified by a very personal approach. To clothing and to emotion. Sun-faded memories, pale non-sun-tanned skin, innocent boy monsters. When life is dressed in a uniform, the individual may be happy, after all.

Image credits Vogue.com

20160606

Pause



Anny Wang Treasures, 2016

Pausing for beauty. Pausing for artificial beauty. For fake objects, objectivity, fakeness. Pausing as in II. Push the button. Feel free. Take a deep breath. And touch the glossy surface of beauty.